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We entered Cambodia from Thailand via the Poipet border, deliberately chosing the land route, rather than flying directly. On this border, Italian journalist Tiziano Terzani nearly lost his life when he was confused as an American spy by the Khmer Rouges that that day conquered the town. It was 17 April 1975. The following 4 years saw one of the most terrible genocides in human history. During those years, Terzani came many times to this border, trying to understand what was